After four airports, three plane rides, two layovers, and one heck of a long time without sleep (about 36 hours), we are in Honolulu. We are also all ready to hit the wall. It seems odd to think that our time in PNG is over, but we’re really looking forward to five whole weeks in this island paradise.
After leaving Madang province on the 24th, we took the long bus ride back to Lae. This time, we didn’t have to trek across a collapsed bridge, but it wasn’t exactly a joyous ride either. We were really excited to get back to Lae and have mail and showers. Once we got back, we collected our mail, took showers, and went to the Lae International Hotel again for more wonderful pizza. We had a free weekend before taking the boat to Salamaua (on the southern coast of the province), so rested up, nursed our blisters, did some laundry, and prepared for the trip. It would be our last week in PNG, so we tried to get as much stuff packed away as possible. Monday morning, we piled aboard a motorboat, and set across the bay to Salamaua. We stayed in Salamaua for three nights, sleeping in a different village every night, and we walked everywhere we went, for the most part. We took a canoe one day to go to Salamaua High School, which ended up being a great program. We saw dolphins on the motorboat ride to Salamaua, and on the way back, it poured, so there were a number of memorable moments from the four day trip to the south coast. Everywhere we went we were welcomed warmly with a singsing and our programs were fairly well received. Every morning when we would leave a village and move on to another, we were loaded up with gifts of bilums and necklaces. We also each got a conch shell will a hole cut into it so you could play it like a horn (I got four by the time we left), and we also got plenty of fruit. Each meal of every day consisted of rice, kaukau (sweet potato), pitpit (a corn-like tasting plant related to sugar cane) and tapioca (a potato-like tasting vegetable). We also got a lot of fish, whole fish with heads and teeth and lots of bones. Josh and I love fish, so we always loaded up on it. I think my favorite would have to be the Red Emperor fish, but it was all very good, and very fresh. Salamaua was a place greatly affected by WWII, and so there were some remnants of the war there. One time when we were walking, we passed a large cannon sitting beside someone’s fence in the village. On Thursday, we took the motorboat back to Lae, excited to take a shower and nurse our blisters even more.
Once back in Lae, we only had one full day to do some last-minute things before flying to Port Moresby. We went to the bank, got some last few things at the store, and recorded some songs for the ELC-PNG to distribute. Then we were part of a farewell ceremony. A young woman from America has been working in the finance office for the past five years, but has now been called to Guam, so she left PNG about the same time as us. They had a nice farewell potluck and devotional for us, and we said our last goodbyes. It was a really great fellowship time. What was really cool, was that afterwards, a PNG man came in and wanted to talk to Josh. It turns out, the man went to school with Josh in Washington, and Josh never really got to know him very well at college, so they caught up and chatted. It’s really funny, because the man had been the pastor of Starkey (our guide in Finschhafen) a few years ago. Josh was more connected with this guy than he originally thought. After the meal, an American professor at the local seminary in Lae came and gave us a little touristy drive around town. We went to the WWII memorial, where a lot of Australian, New Guinean, and Indian (REAL Indian from India) soldiers are buried. It was a really neat memorial. Then we went to the Amelia Earhart memorial. Lae was the last place Amelia was seen before taking off from the Lae airport with her flight director on that fatal flight in 1937. However, the memorial was less than elegant. A simple stone monument with “Amelia Earhart” on it, surrounded by an overgrown flower garden, was all that had ever been put in place to keep her spirit in existence in PNG.
Saturday morning, we boarded a bus with everything we currently possess, and rode to the Lae airport, which actually isn’t really in Lae. In the middle of Lae city, there is an old airstrip that was closed in the early 80’s because of noise. About 30 minutes out of town, is the airport for Lae, called Nadzab. Most people think that Nadzab is just a PNG name, but we found out that it means North American Defense Zone Air Base. The United States had used that area as an air force base during WWII, and it had been updated and repaved in the 80’s to serve as the new airport for Lae. We learn something new everyday. Once we got to the airport, we went through security and got our boarding passes. The security check consisted of a group of officers feeling the outside of our bags, and then looking at our IDs. An hour later, we were back in Port Moresby, the city we started this journey in. We went back to the Lutheran guest house we stayed at before, so it brought back some memories. I remember first arriving in January and not really wanting to be there, but now, we were all very excited to go back and stay there again. On Sunday we went to church with a man from Chicago who worked for the ELCA in the global missions department. Then we had lunch with him and some people he was working with in PNG. We also met the Prime Minister’s personal attorney, and he gave us a personal, behind-the-scenes tour of the parliament. It was strange, because when we went to the parliament in January, we were told not to take any pictures inside the chamber. This time, we could take all we want. I guess it’s who you know. The man also happened to be the Chief Executive of Air Niugini, which we would be taking to Singapore. He also was going on the same flight as us to do some government business in Singapore. We were all secretly hoping he would hook us up with first class seats, but that didn’t happen.
Monday morning we got up, ate breakfast, packed up our stuff, and went out for lunch. We decided to eat our last meal at the place we ate our first meal at, Big Rooster. For those who didn’t read about it earlier, Big Rooster is the McDonalds of PNG. However, instead of everything being made with Grade D beef, everything at Big Rooster is made with huge, fresh chicken. After eating all of my meal, as well as parts of Liz and Tara’s, I had consumed about ten potatoes worth in fries, and probably about one whole chicken. It was grand. After lunch, we headed back to the guest house, loaded all our bags into the van, and headed for the airport. When our plane took off, I wondered how long it would be before I would go back. Most people who visit PNG are said to get the PNG “bug” and have to return again. It’s an easy country to want to visit again, the people are first class, and the experience is one of a kind.
Roughly seven hours after leaving Port Moresby, we touched down in Singapore. We had heard stories telling of the greatness and majesty of the Singapore airport. We eagerly exited the plane and entered the vast, wonder-laden terminal and began to discover its treasure. We arrived at 8 pm, and didn’t have our next flight until 6 am. After hitting up the McDonalds, we spent the next ten hours plundering the riches of free internet, flushing toilets, drinking fountains safe enough for babies, and unlimited places to take power naps. The one weird thing about the airport was the security guards. We found it a little strange that on the customs and immigration form, there was a note that said trafficking drugs into Singapore was punishable by death. However, we didn’t expect to see security officers armed with automatic weapons. They didn’t just have these little squirt-gun looking BB guns strapped to their backs, no. Each guard had both hands firmly gripped around a gleaming Uzi. I think they meant business about the drug thing. Luckily, they didn’t find the one anti-malaria capsule I had in my pocket. What a relief!
After our adventure in Singapore, we took a morning flight to Tokyo, during which we were served the nastiest breakfast United Airlines has to offer. It was some sort of omelet thing, but airline food doesn’t ever start out at the gourmet level. In fact, the only potential that exists in airline food is to get worse as it’s served, which definitely applied here. However, I may be slightly biased in this particular case. After another seven hours aboard a flying tin can, we landed in the early afternoon in Tokyo. Tokyo airport doesn’t have nearly the shimmer that Singapore’s airport possesses. Fortunately, we were only there for five hours. I just kind of sat around and got my cell phone charged up and ready for our arrival in the United States. At about 7 pm, Tuesday night, we took off from Tokyo and headed for Honolulu. It was a very empty and very bumpy flight. I tried to sleep, but that’s something I don’t do well on planes, I’ve discovered. At 7 am, Tuesday morning, we landed in Hawaii. It was strange to take of at night and arrive the morning of the same day. Let’s just say I’m ready for it to be Wednesday.
Once we got on the ground in Honolulu, we went through immigration. It was kinda nice, because as the immigration officer signed my card and let me through, he looked at me intently and said “Welcome home.” It was at that point that I realized that I was home. Even though home was really another four airplanes away for me, I was in America. Going through customs was a breeze. None of us got searched, questioned, or scanned, and we soon found ourselves outside by the pickup lanes, waiting in the fresh, Hawaiian air. Soon our contact arrived, and we were off to breakfast. Then we went to our place of residence for the next five weeks and took real showers and wonderful naps. After our nap, we went for dinner (we slept clear through lunch, and we didn’t care). We found a Taco Bell, which is like an oasis of junk food, and very much amazing. The girl at the counter knew we weren’t from Hawaii (nobody but the Polynesians are really considered Hawaiian) and asked us where we were from. I told her Papua New Guinea. I think that’s gonna be what we say from now on, because it gets a much better reaction than “The Midwest.”
So here we are, back home. A new journey, filled with potential of unknown variety. They’ll be plenty of ministry opportunities here, and plenty of time to enjoy this beautiful place too. Much like Papua New Guinea, we have a feeling Hawaii is also a land of unexpected events and memories. It’s a new day, a ‘New Dawn” if you will, for our ministry. Surf’s up Jesus!
Life is good, God is great!
-Kyle